Clos d’Ambonnay from the 2006 vintage is drinking beautifully now, flexing its muscles by combining comforting aromas of Porcini mushroom, sweet hay, rice and toasted buckwheat with the laser force of lemony acidity, lemon jam and salty seaweed. Hugely powerful, driving across the palate with energy and a waft of sea breeze. Only 4,514 bottles and 800 magnums of 2006 were made, and this is only the sixth release since 1995. Harvest of the Clos d’Ambonnay vineyard was on 21 September that year. Drinking window: 2024-2040. Score – 96. (Natalie Earl, decanter.com, July 3, 2024)