Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento Riserva Brunello di Montalcino 2004

Col d’Orcia’s Poggio al Vento or ‘windy hill’ vineyard gets the afternoon sun but ripens slowly, creating a rich wine which is anything but heavy. Fruit expression in the 2004 is clear and purposeful, the tannins beneath have smoothed over time, leaving the red fruit notes fully expressed above a saline undertow. An old school Brunello in the best sense. Drinking window: 2021-2035. Score – 98. (Monty Waldin, decanter.com, Oct. 17, 2021)