Cloudsley Foxcroft Vineyard Chardonnay 2020

Planted in 1996 by the Wismer family, the Foxcroft vineyard, 5km from Lake Ontario on exposed lower clay slopes, shows its pedigree again here: flinty elegance yet sinewy muscle – much more on the citrus spectrum than Wingfield, with smoky charred grapefruit pith notes, perky acidity, seaspray and well-judged oak, 40% new. Drinking window: 2023-2030. Score – 95. (Tina Gellie, Decanter, Nov., 2023)