Vassaltis Barrel Aged Assyrtiko 2021

Vassaltis was the dream and now life’s work of Yannis Valambous who resurrected his father’s vineyards and turned them into some of Santorini’s finest tracts. As of 2012 the project has taken root, launched forward and come to a most profound and exciting place. The consulting oenologists are Elias Roussakis and Yannis Papaeconomou who along with Valambous drill down into the island’s volcanics to create haute assyrtiko with the greatest sense of place. The barrel aged style is of course Burgundian but it is impossible to smother Santorini and fully assimilate assyrtiko. Richness abounds, intensity magnifies and here assyrtiko takes on a whole next level of purpose. The methodology does allow for movement not wholly restricted to the salty and the mineral but the wine shows no lack of those elements. In the end this is about as big and rich as the grape will get. Drink 2023-2028. Tasted January 2023. Score – 95. (Michael Godel, winealign.com)