Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2020

Boekenhoutskloof has always made impressive, age-worthy Semillons, but Gottfried Mocke has taken the 2020 to another level of complexity. Using grapes from three old parcels, planted in 1902, 1936 and 1942, with the largest component from the legendary La Colline vineyard, this includes 2% Muscat d’Alexandrie and some field-blended Semillon Gris. Fermented in two thirds new wood, with the rest seeing concrete eggs and amphoras, it’s one of the greatest ever Cape whites. Stony, flinty and layered, with wax, lemongrass and nutmeg flavours and subtle struck match reduction. Wow! Drink date: 2022-2030. Score – 99. (timatkin.com, South Africa Special Report 2022)