Loimer Grüner Veltliner 2022

Carrying on his family’s winemaking tradition, after studying oenology at Austria’s Klosterneuburg University and working in Germany and Napa, he took over the winery from his father in 1997. His 80 hectares of vineyards began conversion to biodynamics in 2006, and all are certified today. Unlike most of his peers, Fred vinifies his wine to dryness, like this concentrated, stony, older vine grüner from vineyard around Langenlois, growing on loess and gneiss soils at 200-400m. Predominantly fermented and aged in large stainless tanks (5% in large oak barrels), this rested 4 months on lees before blending and bottling. Pink grapefruit, crunchy honeycrisp apple, tangerine runs the sleek palate, dusted with white pepper and lingering with white blossoms. Score – 90. (Treve Ring, gismondionwine.com, Oct. 11, 2023)