Masi Costasera Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2017

Hillside, south-west facing slopes are the source, as always at this address. 70% corvina, 15% rondinella, 10% oseleta and a dash of molinara. Oseleta’s thick, skin-heavy solid-to-liquid ratio serves as a bulwark against a warming climate, imparting tannins and very bright acidity. A fine variety, serving a warming region well while adding a sense of completion to the blend. It is often picked as late as October. This is excellent. Dense as much as it is remarkably sprightly and fresh. Aromas of pine, fennel and layers of maraschino cherry, damson, balsamic, polished leather and high quality bitter chocolate. Finishes pithy, firm and nobly bitter. Drink or hold. Score – 96. (Ned Goodwin, MW, jamessuckling.com, May 9, 2023)