Potel’s steep parcel of the Aux Chaignots premier cru was planted in 1998 at a radically high 12,000 vines per hectare, aged in 50% new wood. The nose is still quite tightly wound, revealing little of the wine’s potential. The palate displays the concentration and density one expects, however, even at this early stage of development, within the context of this cool and challenging vintage. It’s certainly produced from clean and well-farmed fruit, with tannins firm and present but far from green or drying, and acids well-integrated into the ensemble, No doubt it’s a radically different vintage than the three preceding it, much warmer with riper, almost raisined fruit character; this harkens back, in welcome manner, to Burgundy from 20 or 30 years ago. Best from 2026-2036. Tasted August 2023. Score – 94. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com)