Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2016

While this is a far reach from the redder fruited, crunchier and pixelated expressions of Classico that increasingly define an exciting region, there is little debate as to the style sought at this address and the fine quality on offer. Cherry wood oak, unique and intriguing, makes its presence felt across a swathe of burly, dusty tannins. The nose, macerated boozy cherries, alpine pine, balsamic and freshly polished stairwell. The finish, strident and long-limbed. Drink or hold. Score – 93. (Ned Goodwin, MW, jamessuckling.com, April 12, 2023)