Paternoster Don Anselmo Aglianico del Vulture 2016

The 2016 Aglianico del Vulture Don Anselmo opens slowly at this young stage, yet it’s quite intense all the same. Fans of pungently ripe cheeses and earthy funk will find a lot to like about the initial burst that wafts up from the glass. However, swirling brings forward a captivating display that mixes incense and rose with exotic curries and currants. The velvety textures soothe the palate with a polished display of dark fruits, as bright acidity and minerals add a tactile grip toward the close. Through it all, there’s a coating of gruff tannins that slowly take hold, clenching the palate with youthful grip, while leaving bitter herbal and cedar tones and hints of tobacco resonating through the finale. It will take years for the 2016 to soften and come fully into focus, but it will be worth waiting for. Drinking window: 2024-2036. Score – 94. (Eric Guido, vinous.com, July 2021)