Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2021

True richness, chock full of exuberance, jumping aromas, barrel nuts, bowls and sweet scents. Some reductive tendency, packed with flavour, peach and all the stone fruit – warm climate or at least vintage. Okanagan perhaps – or Southern Bourgogne. A matter of bâttonage restraint, only introduced to minor oxygenation and yet never a chardonnay of reduction. Steel keeps the freshness and though you feel the current climate situation of heat accumulation you also appreciate the winemaking. Even with new oak softness, the 50-70 year-old vines do their yeoman work and there is plenty of brightness captured. Drink 2023-2026. Tasted July 2023. Score – 91. (Michael Godel, winealign.com)