Umani Ronchi Cúmaro Conero Riserva 2019

Sage and cocoa complement plum and cherry sauce aromas as the 2019 Conero Riserva Cumaro smolders up from the glass. It’s silky smooth with polished red fruits and an interplay of savory and sweet as hints of sour citrus mingle with confectionary spice. It finishes structured, leaving woodgrained tannins and a cheek-puckering tension as tart wild berries and espresso bean suggestions fade. While I prefer a bit less wood influence, the 2019 Cumaro is beautifully balanced and should integrate nicely over the coming years [but can be served tonight after an hour in the decanter]. Drinking window: 2026-2033. Score – 92. (Eric Guido, vinous.com, May 2, 2024)