Barbeito 5-Year-Old Malvasia Reserva

Barbeito runs on the drier and sharper end of the spectrum for all of the various sweetness categories of Madeira, and this malvasia, the sweetest of Madeiras, is rendered here in its leanest and freshest form, still sweet, but anchored on a seam of electric acidity, and with some firm tannins to further tighten the ensemble. Complexity and depth are exceptional, and complexity is world class. Candied orange, lime and lemon, kumquat, barley, honey, mint and more linger. Serve this chilled with hard or blue cheeses, or game (venison, hung game birds) for a real treat. Tasted January 2019. Score – 95. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com)