Bonny Doon Picpoul 2023

The inestimable Randall Grahm has long been a poet of Picpoul, among other things, and this lovely example is loaded with freshness and complexity. The aromatics are light and lovely, with crushed chalk and white flower coming to the fore. The zippy acidity soars in this ‘lip stinger’, which clocks in at only 10.5% alcohol. The palate is energetic and electric with grapefruit pith, unripe apricot and Key lime. Though the acid commands attention, a notable texture shines through as this wine finishes slightly savoury. Delightful. Drinking window: 2023-2028. Score – 91. (Clive Pursehouse, decanter.com, May 30, 2023)