The wine is aged in very old concrete tanks with walls one metre thick. Gorgeously fruity nose and masses of pure, lavishly red shiny fruit. This is a delight. Peppery freshness, the sweetness of the fruit so well balanced by an orange-citric tang and a subtle tangle of dry herbs and cool liquorice root. Carrying its 15% alcohol with consummate ease. So easy, so approachable, but far from simple. When to drink: 2022-2026. Score – 17 (out of 20). (Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com, Oct. 5, 2022)