Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2021

The last blended Annata of Paolo de Marchi’s four and a half decade tenure at Isole e Olena is this 2021, lower in sangiovese and conversely higher in canaiolo, because he knew the blend needed to up its sapidity game. The canaiolo raises pH and works with the other splashes (including syrah but also vials of mystery) to elaborate and elevate sangiovese’s salted-elemental game. De Marchi has hit the vintage nail on the head with a 2021 that shows its cards but refuses to lay them on the table. This will always be his wine, in a figurative sense the last and most valuable work of his life as an Olena artist. He is the whooper swan and you pay close attention to the trumpets of fruit and clicks of acidity. Before too long the sounds will cease because there will be no more tannic threats and so both this 2021 and Paolo will move, embrace change and live on. Drink 2024-2028. Tasted February 2024. Score – 95. (Michael Godel, winealign.com)