Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Schmitt Riesling Spätlese 2007

The 2007 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese Schmitt represents Johannes Selbach’s extension of block-picking in this distinguished parcel to a wine of Spatlese Pradikat. Why not Auslese? In part, says Selbach, it was by design, pruning for a bit more crop in the interest of achieving a representation of Schmitt (and of course of the vintage) that could be enjoyed on a wider range of occasions. And while the grapes were harvested well into Auslese, the character is indeed more accurately described as ‘Spatlese.’ In fact, Selbach is considering in future simply calling this wine and that from the Rotlay simply by their parcel names, without further classification or Pradikat, ‘and let come what comes, depending on the vintage.’ Subtle smokiness, alkalinity, and stony notes impinge on pear, quince preserves, mint, and lily perfume in the nose. On the palate, smoke and stone follow into a realm of malted, salted, caramelized, almost chocolaty richness. Spicy pungency from botrytis – but no bitterness – emerges in a finish of riveting mineral complexity. From high-toned floral essences to low-toned depth, and from orchard fruits in fresh and jellied form to myriad mineral manifestations, the layers that characterize this picking of grapes ‘as they grew’ are fascinatingly diverse and at the same time dynamic in their interplay. This is a wine to follow for a quarter-century or more. Score – 94. (David Schildknecht, robertparker.com, June 29, 2009)