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The Tout Pres world is always a complex one. This is where sap is zapped by wood smoke, where undergrowth is fired by autumn leaves. There’s fruit, there’s forest, there are roots dug into earth. The nuances come like dimples on a gold ball, such is their number, such is their integration. Don’t drink now, drink later. Drink by: 2030. Score – 96. (Campbell Mattinson, winecompanion.com.au, Aug. 1, 2020)
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