J. M. Sélèque Solessence Extra Brut Champagne

The main nonvintage cuvée from this young producer who is based just south of Épernay is dry in the house style, giving the tense and finely structured fruit plenty of space to speak. This is a tightly wrought Champagne but one with such great white- and citrus-fruit flavors that it is ready to drink. Score – 92. (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Dec. 1, 2020)