Bollinger PN AYC 18 Champagne

The fourth edition of Bollinger’s limited PN series is the most expressive yet, with a hugely satisfying, expansive character. Dried pear, stewed Bramley apple and nectarine melt into the depths of reserve wine complexity, with chestnut honey and perfectly pitched savoury interest. It’s surprisingly silky, the texture surprisingly weightless, the shape rounded and cushioned rather than strict or driving. A highly rewarding Champagne, ready to drink but with interesting potential to evolve over the next five years. 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly from Aÿ, with support from the villages of Tauxières and Verzenay. Based on the 2018 vintage, with 50% reserve wines back to 2009. Drinking window: 2023-2030. Score – 93. (Tom Hewson, decanter.com, July 26, 2023)