Laurent-Perrier Itération No. 23 Grand Cuvée Siècle Champagne

Dried lemons, salted almonds, oyster shells, croissants, iodine, baked apples, spices and some ginger notes. White pepper, too. Vibrant and fresh, with a distinct saline edge. I like the subtle spice character. So much subtle power and tension. 58% chardonnay and 42% pinot noir, from 2006, 2004 and 2002. 14 years on the lees, three or four more than the normal bottle release. Only available in magnum. Drink or hold [into the early 2040s]. Score – 99. (jamessuckling.com, Aug. 8, 2022)