Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. Extra Brut Champagne 1997

Gorgeous nutty nose, dark golden in colour but completely belying the freshness and racy energy within the glass. Buttery brioche notes with lemon patisserie, hazelnuts and candied lemons but also bitter fruit rind aromas too, so much going on but so precise and crystalline at the same time. So much life to this, zingy and upfront, totally thrilling and you’d never guess it was from 1997. It’s not succulent but totally mouthwatering, giving the acidity still but remaining quite focussed and direct. I love the slightly baked patisserie edges and soft hints of buttery toast. Just wonderfully exhilarating drinking this, totally wows on the palate with a clarity that is so moreish. It’s extremely uplifting with such a sense that there’s something very special in the glass. Drinking window: 2022-2042. Score – 98. (Georgina Hindle, decanter.com, Jan. 15, 2024)