Rémi Leroy Extra Brut Champagne

Based in the Aube, which shares the same Portlandian and Kimmeridgian limestone soils as Chablis just further south, young Remi farms 3 of his family’s organic 9ha under this label; the rest of the grapes are sold to large champagne houses. Based on the 2014 vintage, with 55 pinot noir, 46 chardonnay and 20 percent reserve wines, my bottle was disgorged in October 2018 with a dosage of 4.6g/l. This was native fermented in 85 percent stainless (remainder in older oak), with full MLF before three years on lees, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Almonds, salt studded biscuit, lemon dough, perfumed cherry blossoms are held taught around a core of green apple, riveting with acidity. Such beautiful balance and finesse here. Rémi has quickly become one of the top vignerons to watch in Champagne. Score – 93. (Treve Ring, gismondionwine.com, March 14, 2019)