Cossart Gordon Full Rich 5-Year-Old Malmsey Madeira

[Though not the same bottling as reviewed by Michael Godel, this will reflect similar qualities and consistent character.] From vineyards that include Jardim do Mar at elevation between 150 and 200m, Contact with skins is approximately 48 hours, followed by fortification with grape brandy and a finishing residual sugar of 110 g/L. Aging is completed in American oak casks in the traditional ‘Canteiro’ system. A gentle heating of the wine is done by way of gradual ‘estufagem,’ in the lofts of the lodges in Funchal, moving from the warm upper floors to the coolest at ground floor over time. Toasted filberts and walnuts really stand out and linger long after the sip is gone. The fruits are all of a dried nature, apricot and persimmon mostly, with this lovely meshing and tempering of sweetness because of the Madeira’s great complexity. Rather gentle stuff and a treat for the times. Drink 2021-2025. Tasted May 2021. Score – 90. (Michael Godel, winealign.com)