Intense, featuring a rather dark persona, with baker’s chocolate, Turkish coffee and steeped black currant notes taking the lead, backed by bitter plum and fig reduction flavors. A long tarry streak and a singed juniper accent show on the finish, ending with a pleasantly woodsy tug. A backward, grippy Port. Best from 2035 through 2060. Score – 98. (James Molesworth, winespectator.com, Dec. 31, 2019)