Lustau Papirusa Manzanilla

The essence of most Sherries is consistency, created by the dynamic process of blending through the solera. What’s particularly interesting about Lustau is its consistent quality, from wine style to wine style, and brand to brand. That’s down to one man, the capataz or cellar master Manuel Lozano. There are many bodegas in Jerez which produce excellent fino, but when it comes to locating a good manzanilla they just don’t have the skill or influence. Whether in Jerez or El Puerto or – as here with Papirusa (and Lustau’s Macarena, 17.25pts) – in Sanlúcar, or with the team of almacenistas, Lozano oversees soleras which produce classics of their type. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW: Intensely nutty, with elegant, dry lemon hints. Rich but balanced expression, open and persistent finish. Lovely, archetypal manzanilla. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Mid-gold. Smoky and toasty on the nose. Palate is satisfying, full and spicy with a typically clean, long finish. Ripe apple fruit lies underneath and there’s a delicate, smoky saline charm. Moving to a fino style rather than the delicacy of a manzanilla, showing more texture. Nick Room: Nose showing apple hints and some toasty brioche characters. Complex palate with evident secondary age but still lively with weight and broad fruit delivery. Packs a punch and has a very long finish. Score – 95. (Panel, decanter.com, Feb. 8, 2020)