Valdespino Inocente Single Vineyard Fino Dry Sherry

[Though not the bottling tasted by John Szabo, MS, this release will reflect similar characteristics and quality.] Valdespino is the largest landowner in Jerez with some 800ha, divided in 18 vineyards. Their excellent Innocente is spontaneously fermented in cask, the last Sherry Bodega to do so, and brandy of palomino is used for fortification – also unique. Wines in the final blend run an average of 10 years old, 100% from Macharnudo vineyard, indeed from the highest elevation section of this excellent cru, with 40+ year old vines. It’s a more mature style of fino to be sure, aged considerably longer than the mean, with strong flor influence and just the beginnings of more oxidative maturation, even if the nose is still exceptionally fresh considering the average age, beautifully refined, sophisticated and elegant, a grand cru wine for an exceptional price. You’d be hard pressed to find a wine of more intense personality and character for less money anywhere in the world. Length and depth are exceptional. A unique style, polarizing perhaps, but delicious. Last tasted May 2021. Score – 94. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com)