Barbeito 5-Year-Old Malvasia Reserva Madeira

Non-vintage Madeira is remarkably consistent from bottling to bottling (like NV champagne, or sherry), so little surprise that this latest bottling is as superb as the one I tasted 5 years ago. It’s such a silly value for a 5-year-old Malvasia, with absolutely ripping acids reining in the caramelized sugars of Madeira, such a unique wine to be sure. Barbeito usually falls on the drier side of each style category, and again here, the sweetest malmsey comes across as a caramelized lime purée on the finish, relentless, uncompromising, almost dry. I mean, where does one find this kind of complexity and originality at $18? Makes no sense. Bring this out with the hard sheep cheeses at the end of the meal for a crisp and satisfying finisher. Tasted October 2024. Score – 94. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com)