Ao Yun 2020

Super classy, fragrant nose that immediately brings demureness with its currants, graphite, paprika, cigar box, tobacco leaves and a touch of cocoa powder. This is a juicier expression of Ao Yun on the palate, with lots of brightness and probably a little less weight and opulence than 2019, but certainly more agility, firmness, tension and freshness. Refined, layered, long and silky, but the tannins are fresh and present. Extremely long and nervy. The best Ao Yun to date that zeroes in on balance. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 19% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 6% syrah and 5% petit verdot. 30% new barrels, 30% old barrels and 40% stoneware jars from Sichuan. Drink from 2025, and the wine should age beautifully for the next two decades, if not longer. Score – 99. (Zekun Shuai, jamessuckling.com, May 3, 2024)