Bachelder Wismer-Foxcroft Vineyard Gamay Noir 2022

On to the Twenty Mile Bench, from a vineyard with pedigree and a favourite of Bachelder for all the varieties he makes. ‘This wine, vinified with 34% whole grape clusters, is the more closed, and the more structured of all our Gamay Noir Crus,’ says Bachedler. ‘We find the use of [33%] whole cluster speaks a little more clearly to us about its gravelly, iron-tinged magnesium oxide soil origins, and since the taste of the land is what we are all about, we are so happy to work with Wismer-Foxcroft – not least for the contrast it underlines between the Twenty Mile Bench VQA (Vineland side), and the beautiful, more lush propositions coming out of the Niagara-on-the-Lake terroir parcels.’ For my palate, this is the top of the class of this year’s release, with everything I like about more serious Gamays happening in this wine. It’s a perfectly balanced, elegant Gamay with an enticing nose of soft red berries, blueberries, plums, cherries jubilee, gravelly/flinty notes, minty herbs, just a tinge of earthy/savoury accents and integrated spices. On the palate, you could confuse this for a bolder style Pinot Noir with its rich and juicy red berry fruit, anise, plummy goodness, rhubarb, bramble notes, touch of anise and iron-y minerality, toasty spice notes and long, vibrant finish. Very fine Gamay which can be cellared until 2030. Score – 94. (Rick VanSickle, winesinniagara.com, April 5, 2024)