Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2015

The aromatic complexity of this wine strikes you from the very first moment – this has got to be one of the greatest Haut Baillys I have ever tasted. The 2015 has a touch of Petit Verdot for the first time (not including the mixed fruit from the century-old grapevines that Haut Bailly always uses), from three year old vines. This has a balance and grip that lifts from underneath the fruit, with incredibly precise tannins. Slate, pencil lead and curls of tobacco lead the persistent waves of flavour coming at you, expressing a lightness than deceives you until you feel the layers begin to deftly build up over the course of the tasting. This is utterly delicious, showing all the complexity that you expect from a great wine, together with the supreme confidence that they don’t need to trick you with a push of oak (they use 50% new barrels). Drinking window: 2023-2040. Score – 98. (Jane Anson, decanter.com, July 21, 2019)