Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2020

The best 2020s seem to be confident without showing off or shouting too loudly and this Carmes does just that. Focused and precise, this is complex and characterful, rich yet vibrant with a texture and taste that makes an impact straight away. Fresh black fruits, floral notes and sensational minerality do the talking – it has weight, density and structure – broad and bold yet svelte, it has direction and persistence, building quickly then settling and elongating with such clarity and purity. This is a wine you want to drink. Cool, classic, sharp and decisive with a flawless texture. Whereas 2019 was more generous, this is more classic and easy to understand. An excellent job – seemingly effortless winemaking in 2020 – and a bottle that is sure to be emptied pretty quickly. Drinking window: 2028-2048. Score – 100. (Georgina Hindle, decanter.com, Dec. 31, 2023)