Château Trotanoy 2020

The 2020 Trotanoy might be described as a beast of a wine. Unlike the previous vintage, which was refined and graceful, this Trotanoy could not give a flying four-letter word what you think. It says ‘take me as I am’ and makes no compromises. For a 2020 it is atypically austere aromatically and I did not scribble a word for the first 60 minutes after opening my bottle. With a hell of a lot of patience, it eventually unveils incredible precision, fabulous mineralité and subtle touches of lavender and incense. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip. It has the structure of the Forth Road Bridge, harking back to the more unyielding Trotanoy vintages of the past. But there is astonishing symmetry and an almost ineffable, cerebral finish. In a world of instant satisfaction, this wine will be overlooked by many, but in 30-40 years’ time, this Trotanoy will be a legend. Drinking window: 2035-2075. Score – 97-99. (Neal Martin, vinous.com)