Château Valandraud 2023

The 2023 Valandraud delivers exactly what you expect on the nose from Jean-Luc Thunevin’s crown jewel: very polished scents of black cherries, cassis and crushed violets. One sample had a soupçon of sur-maturité, although another at the château displayed more composure and coolness. The palate is rich and fruit-driven with layers of black fruit. The sample at the château showed more backbone and grip, a healthy sprinkling of cracked black pepper and a long and persistent finish. Give this three to five years, because it is a seriously good Saint-Émilion. Drinking window: 2030-2055. (Neal Martin,vinous.com)