Clos de L’Oratoire Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023

This great Chateauneuf manages to square the circle of dark aromas like tar and dry earth with freshness that’s rare for this hot and dry vintage. It’s juicy and elegant but also subtle, with a very fine texture. A long, velvety finish with a delicacy that pulls you back for more. A cuvee based on old-vine grenache. Drink or hold [for another two decades]. Score – 95. (Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com, April 8, 2025)