Dal Forno Romano Monte Lodoletta Valpolicella Superiore 2017

Taking in the 2017 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta reminds me of all of the desserts, spices and confections experienced on Christmas day. An array of medicinal cherries, plum sauce, ginger cookies, cloves, cinnamon and dried roses captivate. There’s tremendous depth here, but it maintains fantastic freshness. This is wildly spicy and intense, yet deep, with brilliant acidity adding energy seldom found in Valpolicella, which enlivens the crunchy red fruits and pretty inner florals within. The 2017 finishes dramatically long and perfumed, resonating on sour blackberries, currants and a bitter hint of cocoa. This goes far beyond the expectation of Valpolicella, with the power and aromatics of an Amarone but with a liveliness that will allow it to excel at the dinner table. Drinking window: 2024-2034. Score – 95. (Eric Guido, vinous.com, March 2023)