Gaba do Xil Mencía 2020

Telmo Rodríguez’s journey through Spain reviving and recuperating vineyards has led him to work with 43 different varieties. Although established in Rioja, he has also put Málaga back on the map and worked with Garnacha in the Sierra de Gredos, as well as establishing wineries in other regions. This Mencía is fermented and aged in stainless steel, revealing the variety’s purity. Sarah Jane Evans, MW: Forward, juicy aromas. Distinctly individual profile, with dense, succulent fruit and a long, ripe finish. Beth Willard: Pretty nose with tomato vine, sour cherry, floral. Very crunchy, green freshness and just the right amount of grippy tannin. Highly drinkable. David Williams: Lovely, pure, graceful and fragrant – full of violet and raspberry juice, racy and succulent with silky tannins and a twist of bergamot and blood orange tang, beetroot earthiness. Almost Pinot-esque. Drinking window: 2023-2028. Score – 95. (Panel, decanter.com, March 3, 2023)