Le Ragose Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella 2006

Harking back to a tradition of a more concentrated must, thereafter aged as wine for 13 years in Slavonian oak. In essence, ‘a mistake’ after the fermentation fails to finish. A glorious mistake. This was known as an Ammandorlato style, referenced on the back label. Thick grape skin tannins, gritty and coal face tenacity. Wow! The fruit flavors almost don’t matter as much to say that this is a tour de force of mint, anise, camphor, smoked charcuterie and a dark brood. A brood of herbal doused berry aspersions laden over a thick mid-palate, finely tuned by a surge of underlying freshness and those tannins. Those amazing tannins! Walnut husk, mahogany and clove linger long. I am almost in tears as I taste this. Drink or hold [through the early 2030s, and perhaps even beyond]. Score – 97. (Ned Goodwin, MW, jamessuckling.com, May 9, 2023)