Lisini Ugolaia Brunello di Montalcino 2017

Lisini’s single-vineyard selection is its usual exotic self in 2017. It opens with a heady mix of incense, juniper, pressed lilac and lavender. There’s also that polished wood nuance which I associate with the wine finishing in chestnut cask for six months. Even more dense than the estate’s annata Brunello, the hearty palate presents flavours of myrtle and currants offset by an appetising inner saline core. This boasts gusto and chew, and those sizeable tannins demand another year in the bottle but are admirably lush. Definitely one of the vintage’s successes. Drinking window: 2024-2034. Score – 95. (Michaela Morris, decanter.com, Feb. 7, 2023)