Maison Roche de Bellene Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2015

Starting to open now, Bellene’s 2015 Clos de Vougeot, from a tiny, 0.026ha parcel of 35-50 year-old vines (just a few hundred bottles) and aged in a new barrique, is a flat out gorgeous wine, so full and fleshy on the palate, ripe but sapid, with an underlying salinity that draws you in again and again. Tannins are marvelously well integrated, so fine and refined, an expression of silk in pure form, while a range of sweet red fruit, raspberry and strawberry purée, and exotic spice, from cardamon to cinnamon bark contribute yet another layer of flavour on the tension-filled but inviting and comfortable frame. Admittedly, this very large grand cru doesn’t always perform at a level commensurate to its fame and average price, but here’s an example which makes the case for this being one of the world’s best pinot noir vineyards. Outstanding wine. Best 2025-2045+. Tasted January 2023. Score – 97. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com)