Maison Roche de Bellene Collection Bellenum Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2008

Looking at this specific bottle, I have to report that this 2008 Vougeot is at peak, or maybe even a bit past, indeed showing more maturity than a Roche de Bellene 2005 Volnay village tasted alongside. It has shifted firmly into the savoury, earthy, pot pourri and dried mushroom spectrum of flavours, although not inconsistent with the challenging 2008 vintage. But those seeking fruit will be left wanting. And the tannins come across as dusty, angular and astringent, abetted by high acids. A tough proposition at the price, but then again, it’s actually relatively inexpensive for a Vougeot of this age – the label drinkers will be delighted – but wine enthusiasts should seek the much sharper values from Bellene currently on the market. Tasted August 2025. Score – 91. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com)