Roche de Bellene Vieilles Vignes Chambolle-Musigny Villages 2019

Still quite tightly wound and marked by elevage (though only 20% new barrels are used), Bellene’s 2019 Chambolle is an essence of limestone on the palate, like crushed oyster shells and oyster liquor, really quite striking. There’s little of the vintage’s generosity on display, more of a show of force of terroir, in this case a 0.6 hectare parcel of 50-70 year old vines on average planted in the usual Burgundian high density (10,000 vines/ha). I find this much more stony and mineral than the mean for the usually silky and finessed wines of this village, and all the more interesting for it. I love the saline note here as well; the internal energy and earthly expression of this wine are special. Excellent length and depth to be sure. What gives it its extra gear? The tension and energy? Whatever it is, I’d like more. Best 2025-2035+ – this has great stuffing for a ‘village’ wine, more than many premier or even grand crus. Tasted January 2023. Score – 95. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com)