Speri Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2019

A single Amarone here, from one vineyard. If there was the legislation to promote single vineyard wine, the estate would likely make more of them. But as it stands, there is not. A large-framed wine with a coil of tannins, operating like a spring of expansion, tension and promotion, sashaying notes of coffee grind, camphor, bitter chocolate, mocha, clove, olive, Fernet Branca, balsamic and pithy cherry notes long across the palate on one hand, while tightening the structural latticework to keep them contained, poised and eminently drinkable, on the other. The more I go back to this, the more I like it. A sophisticated Amarone, with a wonderful skein of acidity towing length. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. Score – 95. (Ned Goodwin, MW, jamessuckling.com, May 9, 2023)