Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Heathcote Shiraz 2021

An outlier of the range, moving away from the spiritual Hunter turf. Ancient Cambrian soils, the oldest in the world. This wine was once a behemoth. Today, tidily compact and eminently drinkable despite the fuller weight, sweeter brood of fruit and the reductive ode to tension. Tapenade, blue fruit, iodine and a hint of menthol. A little gritty across the edges, but will placate those on the hunt for richer, slightly throaty styles. Drink or hold. (Ned Goodwin, MW,jamessuckling.com,Sept. 12, 2023)