Charly Nicolle Per Aspera Chablis 2023

Chablis’ Kimmeridgian limestone, the fossil-rich soil behind the appellation’s racy tension, is where Charly Nicolle farms the Per Aspera bottling. Quince and grapefruit zest carry a chalky, flinty edge, and the acidity is crisp enough to keep the finish long and taut. Crushed oyster shell turns up right on the finish, a nod to those ancient marine soils. Steamed crab or mussels would pair well. Drink date: 2026-2031. (nataliemaclean.com,Oct. 10, 2026)