El Enemigo Chardonnay 2023

Exotic, ripe and balanced, with impressive suggestions of gala apple, apricot, mango, green almond, vanilla and caramel. There’s a complex crushed-stone-and-seashell minerality and a taut, saline-infused finish. At this stage, the 2023 appears particularly ageable, with the potential to drink into the early 2030s. Very fine.