J. de Villebois Marnes Kimméridgiennes Pouilly-Fumé 2019

A lovely, complex nose with a creamy layer to the edgy chalk, flint and lemon zest. Some spice and quince, too. Very chalky and intense on the palate, with bright acidity cutting it through. Very integrated, with outstanding tension and cohesion. Long and intense, but subtle. Drinkable now, but will hold, too [until 2026]. Score – 93. (jamessuckling.com, Sept. 6, 2022)