Olivier Leflaive Sous le Dos d’Ane Meursault 1er Cru 2018

A Meursault that’s almost a Puligny, both in terms of geography and style, this is a wine that benefited from its altitude in 2018. Formerly a red vineyard until it was replanted in 1983, this is subtle, leesy and engagingly refreshing for the vintage, with well-handled 20% new wood, crunchy acidity and a taut, stony, lees-influenced finish. Drinking window: 2022-2030. Score – 94. (Tim Atkin, MW, decanter.com, Oct. 17, 2019)