Querciabella Batàr 2021

The blend is 50-50 pinot bianco and chardonnay though 2021 lends a bit of a percentage towards the former. Low quantity vintage though it can never be forgotten that an abandoned vineyard in the early days delivered the original 100 percent pinot bianco. Was called ‘Bâtard Pinot’ back in 1988. In 1992 chardonnay was added and the pinot was dropped. Then the Bâtard became a French faux-pas but the Milanese love child continued and finally the D was dropped. Still the homage to Bourgogne always hides under the covers. Skins are truly important for this ’21 and textures are everything. Are these components fine-tuned and refined to a level that really exults the wine Querciabella is trying to make? The answer is yes, in another way than before, though this current (already to market) vintage is so young it’s a crime to even discuss. Balance is spot on, subtlety and soft spoken voice sending positive messages and vibes, but ultimately it needs to be revisited in two or three years. Drink 2026-2033. Tasted February 2024. Score – 96. (Michael Godel, winealign.com)