R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Viña Gravonia Crianza 2017

Something of a bargain among the López de Heredia whites, which have increased in price because of a combination of demand and high quality, this is a triumph over the heat and frost of 2017. Made from a parcel of 92-year-old Viura, it has flavours of salt, almond paste, citrus peel and beeswax, impressive extract and an enticingly bitter finish. Drink date: 2025-2033. Score – 95. (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com, Rioja Special Report 2025)